Recently I bought a bicycle. I bought the bike because I first considered stealing one, but I have no aptitude for crime. Instead, dutifully, I paid for a lime green contraption, with whitewall tires, and a front basket.
I was under the impression that one could not forget how to ride these things, however, I have almost killed myself several times already. It does not help that fearless cats lie out in the middle of the streets. They lie on their sides, heads cocked, and stare at you as you perform wobbly maneuvers around them.
But a bicycle is the best way to get around when the streets flood.
September is the rainy season, and tropical rains are symphonic. In moments, a storm can switch the sky from pristine, to a purple, velvet, padded look. Et puis, the deluge. In an instant, streets are submerged, sidewalks immersed. Whole coconuts bob in gutters turned to rivers, like kids on water-slides.
It is customary in Key West to ride on the sidewalks. I found this spectacularly annoying so long as I was a pedestrian. Now that I am a cyclist I see the merits. Primarily, that one is out of the reach of motorists.
However, Key West sidewalks are treacherous. They are irregularly dotted with lampposts, palm trees, and one time, a man sleeping on a low cot. Not to mention, the spectacularly annoying pedestrians. It does not help that these sidewalks, made of concrete slabs, occasionally pitch, like buck-teeth, from Jurassic tree roots.
Often there is jungle foliage drooping over the sidewalks, reducing the space to an ever narrowing, green tunnel. Tight enough to crash into, if one was not used to being on a bicycle. I have crashed a couple of times, spiky fronds leave marks like cat’s claws.
As quickly as the storms come, they depart. Sunshine infiltrates and rainbows pop out, birds chirrup. The air turns steamy and fills with dense, loamy, flower smells. On my bike I glide through the heavy puddles, and inspect the drenched town. Steam rises. Roosters bark out their mad song. Cats are everywhere, on car roofs, on porch railings. With only the merest curiosity they watch my unsteady approach, on my green bicycle, flicking muddy water, and still they do not even twitch an ear. Cool cats.